Product Information Center
Here you will find all the information necessary to know more about our products, their types, features and how they are made. Feel free to use this page as per you information requirements and ask any questions through our contact page if you don’t find your answers here!
How Scissors Are Made
All hair cutting scissors are made with stainless steel that is manufactured in either Japan, Korea, Germany or Pakistan. The steel made in Japan is regarded as the best scissor steel in the world. Korean and Chinese steels are good, but tend to be a little softer metal and do not hold an edge as well as Japanese steels. German steel is very hard steel, usually too hard to sharpen to a razor edge.
The process of making good scissor steel is the result of an exact recipe in which several ores, alloys and elements are combined in a well-balanced mixture that gives you just the right cutting tool. Carbon is the principal hardener in steel. The more carbon that is added, the harder it gets. Carbon content should be between .95 and 1.2% of the finished steel. A steel that is too hard will not perform well for slide or dry cutting. Molybdenum adds toughness and increases corrosion resistance to chemicals that can cause pitting and dulling. Manganese contributes to the tensile strength of the blade, so that it will retain its edge longer. Chromium protects against corrosion and also adds heat resistance so that the steel will maintain its desired properties during forging and finishing. Vanadium adds toughness and fatigue resistance so that the scissor will maintain its set and balance. Cobalt and Titanium are also added to some steels to increase hardness and decrease weight, and adding these alloys will result in the finest scissor steel.
Titanium is only an additive to stainless steel, no scissor is made of 100% titanium or any other alloy. That would be like trying to make a chocolate cake out of nothing but cocoa powder.
Stylists need to remember that stainless steel is not stain proof steel.
Don’t be misled by terms such as “Damascus Steel” (a steel that has not been produced since the 1700’s) or “Miracle Steel” or “Smart Steel”. These do not represent actual steel categories and are just hype.
The Titanium used to color the scissor will not make it any sharper nor will it make the edge last longer. It just produces a pretty surface that is very long-lasting.
Many scissors now come in colors and can be referred to as “Titanium” scissors. It is important to be aware that this does not mean that the scissors are made from Titanium, but that the color is a Titanium coating and therefore will not chip or peel off.
How a scissor is made is also of vital importance. The best scissors are Hand-Forged as opposed to Cast or Stamped scissors. Stamped scissors are the most inexpensive and are not usually hollow-ground. They are not as sharp and have a lot of drag on the blade. Many scissors now made in Taiwan or China are Cast scissors that are digitally finished. The tempering (hardening) process on cast scissors does not produce a scissor that will hold an edge as long as a forged scissor, but that should be reflected in a lower price. Also, hand-forged scissors can have a much sharper edge, depending on the craftsman making the scissor, but the digital finishing produces a uniformly consistent mid-range scissor.
It is also important to note that there is No such thing as a scissor that never needs to be sharpened. All scissors must be sharpened when they get dull or are nicked.
Choosing The Right Scissors For You
The most important thing that you should look for in a scissor after you have established what quality of scissor you wish to purchase, is how it feels, not just in your hand, but how it feels to your whole body. The wrong scissor can contribute to Carpal Tunnel Syndrome, Tendonitis, Bursitis, Rotator Cup, and other hand, arm, shoulder, neck and back problems. The right scissor can prevent, or even cure, these problems. The factors that will make it a good scissor for you are: Weight, Length, Balance and Handle Configurations.
The wrong scissor can contribute to Carpal Tunnel Syndrome, Tendonitis, Bursitis, Rotator Cup, and other hand, arm, shoulder, neck and back problems. The right scissor can prevent, or even cure, these problems.
There are hundreds of different styles on the market and one way in which they differ is weight. Some people like a heavy scissor, most stylists prefer a lighter scissor. Be aware of your preference and make sure that the weight of the scissor is comfortable and that you have a feeling of control all the way to the tip of the blade.
Most scissors range in length from 4.5” to 8”. To choose a basic cutting tool, you should measure the length of the blade against your middle finger, and the overall length of the scissor against the extended palm of your hand. Most women are more comfortable working with a 5” or 5.5” scissor, while most men prefer a 5.5” or 6.0” scissor. Longer scissors, such as 6.5” to 8” scissors are good for scissor over comb work and longer styles.
On a true left handed scissor, the sharp edge of the top blade is on the left-hand side of the blade. The trouble with a left-handed stylist using a right-handed scissor is that it puts more stress and tension on the hand to be able to use that scissor.
Thinning/blending scissors can save time and produce more uniform results when softening “lines” and “corners”, feathering, thinning bulk, or adding volume.
Texturizing scissors generally have between 13 and 16 teeth. The teeth are farther spaced on a thinner and they tend to be a little thicker. They are used in the place of point cutting for feathering bangs and hair around the face. They also are used for providing texture to the hairstyle and give a more spiky look, but not very extreme.
Chunking/Notching scissors have between 5 & 9 teeth. These scissors are used for that really spiky look known as spiked hair or fractured hair. They take out large chunks of hair but in less frequent intervals than a thinner/blender or a texturizing scissor.
The tension of your thinning, texturizing, or chunking scissors should be a little tighter than the tension of your regular scissors.
A scissor should feel well-balanced in your hand. That means that neither the handle nor the blade should feel too heavy when you are cutting with the scissor. You don’t want to feel that you are working to hold the tip of the blade level with the cutting surface, or your hand will become easily fatigued.
Handle configuration is probably one of the biggest considerations when choosing a new scissor. OPPOSING or STRAIGHT handled scissors put the most strain on the hand, wrist, arm, shoulder, neck and back. OFF-SET and CRANE-HANDLE scissors put less strain on the body and are usually a better choice.
Finger inserts/rings are plastic rings you put inside your scissor finger holes to reduce the size of the finger holes. Use finger inserts so that your scissors will fit your fingers and thumb. The holes on a scissor handle should not be sloppy and should not go past your knuckle, especially on your thumb. A poor fit will put more strain on your hand and dull your scissors more quickly.
An ergonomic scissor is designed so that it puts the least amount of stress on the hand, arm, shoulder and back when the stylist is cutting. Ergonomic scissors can help reduce pain in your hand, elbow, shoulder, and back. They can also help if you are suffering from carpal tunnel syndrome, tendinitis, or bursitis. There are a number of ergonomic styles: double swivels, swivels, and bent thumbs.
Off-set or crane handles, which allow the finger and thumb to not move in order to comfortably grip the shear.
Spacing between the finger and thumb rings, which prevents your hand from cramping. A bent down thumb ring or a rotating thumb swivel ring, which allows the stylist to straighten her writst and drop her shoulder and elbow.
Things that will help in this problem are using an ergonomically correct shear, such as a shear with an off-set handle, a crane handle, bent down thumb ring, or particularly a rotating swivel thumb, and using a shear that is not too heavy.
Scissors should be cleaned at the end of each day, before they are put in their case for the night. And if you are cutting permed hair, colored hair or hair impregnated with chlorine, you should wipe down the blades with alcohol and dry them after the cut. These chemicals can dull your blades. Hair and dirt left on scissors can cause rusting and pitting.
It is best to store your scissors in a case whenever they are not in your hands. This will prevent customers and other stylists from “borrowing” your scissors to do things like cut out recipies and cut off the tops of perm bottles.
We recommend having any scissors that you use on a regular basis serviced at least once a year. They need to be cleaned, set and balanced, even if they are still sharp.
Always use a qualified sharpener, whose work you have seen. Never use a sharpener who is unknown to you or others in your shop, or who cannot provide you with references. A hack can ruin your expensive scissors.
Any good company should be able to tell you how their scissors are made, where they were made and what kind of steel they were made with.
Any good company should deal quickly and fairly with any problems or concerns you may have about your scissors.
Be sure to ask questions and learn all you can about the company you buy scissors from.